Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: What is haberdashery and what does it include?
- A: Haberdashery is an umbrella term for small sewing and garment notions that complement work with fabric. It includes thread, needles, zippers, buttons, snap fasteners, hooks and eyes, elastic, ribbons, bias binding, hook-and-loop fastener, and various decorative trims. These are the components that hold a garment together and provide its fastenings or embellishments.
Q: How do I choose the right sewing machine needle for the type of fabric?
- A: Needles differ in thickness and point shape depending on the material. Use a finer needle (e.g. size 70-80) for lightweight fabrics, and a thicker one (90-110) for heavy and denim fabrics. A sharp point (universal, microtex) works well on woven fabrics, while a ball point (jersey, stretch) is meant for knit fabrics, since it pushes the fibers apart instead of piercing and breaking them.
Q: What is the difference between a metal and a plastic zipper?
- A: A metal zipper is stronger and more durable, making it well suited to jeans, jackets and bags that see heavy use. A plastic zipper (coil or molded-tooth) is more flexible, lighter and quieter, making it ideal for dresses, skirts, cushions and delicate garments. A coil zipper will often realign itself if it comes apart, whereas a metal zipper can't be repaired once a tooth falls out.
Q: What's the best thread for sewing cotton and knit fabric?
- A: For most everyday sewing, an all-purpose polyester thread is the best choice, as it's strong and slightly stretchy. For knit fabrics and other stretch materials, a more elastic thread is better, so it won't snap when the seam is stretched. Use a finer thread for delicate fabrics and a heavier one for thicker fabrics and seams under strain.
Q: How do I measure the zipper length I need?
- A: Zipper length is measured from the top edge to the bottom stop — that is, the length of the toothed section, not the whole tape. For separating zippers used in jackets, measure the full functional length, while for invisible zippers in dresses you typically measure the length of the opening you want to close. It's always best to choose the exact length, or a slightly longer zipper that can be shortened if needed.
Q: What types of buttons are there, and which one is right for a coat?
- A: Buttons fall into two main types: sew-through buttons (with holes you stitch directly through) and shank buttons (with a loop on the back). Shank buttons are the better choice for coats and heavier garments, since the shank leaves room for the thickness of the fabric and lets the button sit properly. In terms of material, you'll find plastic, metal, wooden and mother-of-pearl buttons to match the style of the garment.
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